I had planned to attach the floor with carriage bolts with wingnuts underneath. There was not enough clearance in the beam to turn the wings, therefore, Plan B. I used regular nuts. I can get at them just as easy as the wings AND can snug them with a box-end wrench. Yay for plans B.
This build is all about simplify! I used a water-based clear finish to cover the floor. It will take three coats with a 240 grit sanding between . A few extra holes were filled; one will probably never see them.
While the finish dries, I turned my attention to the sidewalls. I used a 2′ radius for the front top and a 4′ radius for the hatch. I think this will give me maximum space, easy curves and a nice overall shape.
I hope I’m not being too clever by one…. the 3′ at the top of the wall may be re-fashioned at some point to accommodate a pop-up roof. Or a lift up, foam entrance door, with almost 6′ headroom. Oh, the possibilities!!!
I filled in voids in the floor frames with rigid insulation. ☹️No pic but one can imagine the pink stuff sliding in. It was then that I realized I had not pulled any 12 volt wire through for the rear plug I had planned. argh!
It was not difficult and soon all was ready to glue: floor, joists, and undercoated plywood together, carraige bolts poking through the 3 sections, extending through the trailer beam holes as planned.
A sanding job preliminary to a coat of finish rounded out todays build
Note the floor is set back from the trailer edge. My design has the wall securely on the underlayment and screwed/glued into the side of the floor, maximizing strength and connection.
My design was to place carriage bolts down through the floor, beams, undercoat and through the holes in HF trailer beams. Split washers, then wingnuts will keep it connected.
I had to drill one layer at a time and then align them all. You see the floor being glued to the floorbeams.
Both parts are drying. I added the 14 gauge wire through the floor beams for the floor outlets to be.
I started with a Harbor Freight trailer. The bed is 4×8. The birch plywood bottom was coated with trailer waterproofing paint. I’m crossing my fingers that it will hold up for years. The shims I’m painting will support the base since the HF crossbeams are about 1/8″ below the side rails.
To get the exact spacing, the floor beams were screwed and glued directly on top of the trailer beams.
So, where’s the potty? /:
Building a Teardrop camper seemed a great idea: Low cost, easy to tow, as simple as one would want. So I’m doing it and sharing the progress here.
I followed a lot of different designs and, of course, chose the simple one. But with a twist. I often enough use the trailer that the camper is to sit on so the construction had to accommodate a complete removal of the camper top and then re-bolting it on after I was done. Fortunately, I had LOTS of time to think it all through and I think my solution will be very usable.First blog post